Today is my soul brother´s birthday and he doesn’t like cheese. I still love him even though he doesn’t like cheese. One time I had a boss who didn’t drink coffee or alcohol. But, I really didn’t like him. I have never understood how one can live without cheese. I guess I did when I was a vegan for a few years but I didn’t know anything about life back then. My soul brother knows a lot about life and he still won’t eat cheese. Who orders a ham and cheese omelet without the cheese? My soul brother does. If it were someone else, I would definitely question this or find it extremely annoying. How do they possibly live without cheese? Did something happen to them at birth? Maybe the anti-cheese midwives delivered them. But, I would never question my soul brother. Because he has so many other redeeming qualities. Like dipping a banana in yogurt at breakfast, EVERYDAY! Wanting to always know the “plan” but then just rolling with it without question. Getting random piercings with me just because we feel like it. We have fun just walking down the street, doesn’t matter what the weather is like. We are happy with a snowfall in Philadelphia, the blazing heat in Sevilla, huddling in a cold wind storm in Madrid, or with the perfect breeze of the seashore in Southern France. He won’t eat cheese in France. But, I still love him. We have a lot of photos that document our friendship. I look at some of them and think, we were just babies! We have photos under castles, next to windmills, in plazas and in bars, lots of bars. We even have a photo together riding a camel. The funny thing is that we have a photo of one of our favourite bars in Sevilla and it is a photo of cheese. There is also one in that bar with olives. But, the one that I remember the most is with cheese. Did you eat that cheese? Why can’t I remember if you like that cheese? I am getting old. Today you have added one more trip around the sun, but you always look the same. Luna always used to say, “Alex never changes.” Don’t ever change, dear soul brother. I love you just the way you are, even if you don’t like cheese.
I have grown to love the Minho river on the northern border of Spain and Portugal. Maybe it is strange to love a river but I really don’t care about that. I also love the Genil river in Granada which runs down from the Sierra Nevada mountains and passes right next to my home. It is my sanctuary and where I find, as my Nana would say, peace of mind. My relationship with the Minho is different. Working, I have crossed it many times on the bus. I have never lost that excitement of seeing this beautiful river that naturally marks the border between Spain and Portugal. Two countries that share a very small peninsula but are so contrasting in food, culture and people. I have also crossed on foot via the historic iron bridge that was built in 1878. If you hike up into the mountains on the Portuguese side of the river you have a view of a small yet beautiful island called Ilha dos Amores that has the shape of a heart. The sunset where the Minho river flows into the Atlantic Ocean is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen, along with Cadiz in Southern Spain. Enjoying a glass of vinho verde which is produced in the region while watching the sunset should be a must in life.
I had never, however, crossed the Minho river by boat. Even though it was July of the year that more pilgrims had ever completed the Camino de Santiago, we were the only two to meet the gentleman who would take us across the river that morning. Another reason I was so happy we had chosen this route. Crossing the river you have a great view of Mount Santa Trega. On this small mountain you will find an archaeological site from the Castro Culture which came about in this area during the 1st millennium BCE. They were known for their large fortified towns and settlements (oppida) across Northern and Central Portugal, Galicia, Asturias and parts of Leon.
On the other side of the Minho river you step off the boat in the town of A Guarda, now with a foot in Galicia! A town of not quite 10,000 inhabitants that is rich in history and gastronomy. Three of the yearly festivals here are centred around food. The lobster, the swordfish, and one dedicated to a sweet egg based bread with anise seed called “Rosca de Yema” which is very similar to my Nana´s easter bread. Speaking of bread, on the rural houses in this area you will find a box for bread delivery just below or next to the mailbox. Very convenient and important since the bread in Galicia is fantastic!
Considering this is a route less traveled, or at least a bit more peaceful than others, there are some great details for pilgrims along the path. We found free scallop shells, areas for resting and picnics and even a meditation garden. When we stumbled upon the lovely bar at a look out point, it couldn’t have been at a better time. Breakfast seemed miles behind us now.
The tortilla española in northern Spain is always fantastic but there is something about the way it is prepared in Galicia that always makes me happy. They seem to take it a step above no matter where I order it. Our plate of Iberian ham and the tortilla with onion was the best move we made that day considering we would not run into much more until dinner.
Just outside of the town of Oia we took a peek into a small chapel dedicated to San Sebastián. San Sebastián was known as the protector from plagues in Spanish history. Mass is only celebrated once a year in this chapel but it is open year round and also serves as a shelter for pilgrims during rough Atlantic storms.
If you are in a small town like Oria and hungry at a time when restaurants are closed you can always find a bar with a small snack that seems to be waiting just for you. A beer named peregrino (pilgrim) and the ham flavored ruffles that are beyond addicting will definitely keep you fueled until dinner. My first hangover cure in Granada was ruffles ham flavored chips and Fanta naranja! It’s a snack that just keeps on giving.
The pool at our hotel when we finally arrived that evening was a very welcome site due to the historically rising temperatures in Galicia. These moments always take me back to my first and second caminos when I slept in monasteries with hundreds of beds in one large room. Forgive me for my little luxuries, Saint James. The pool stood in second place after we found our perfect restaurant. The sunset over the Atlantic blessed us with its fading light as we enjoyed a bottle of Albariño wine. The camino and Albariño are closely tied together. One legend says that the monks from Cluny, France brought the Albariño grape to Galicia when doing the pilgrimage in the 12th century but other studies show that albariño seeds were also found in a salt mine from Roman times. Either way, the albariño wine goes perfectly with the local food.
Zamburiñas, are a small type of scallop in Galicia. In the world of scallops, they are by far my favorite. This simple preparation which is to lightly grill them with olive oil and maybe a bit of parsley and garlic is the way I most like to enjoy them. That night, after our zamburiñas we also had a perfectly grilled piece of turbot and a Galician steak.
The perfect end to a perfect day. We decided this might be a romantic place for a special celebration one day!
My first semester in Granada 30 years ago I had a friend with whom I would spend time speaking a mixture of Spanish and English and wandering about the streets stopping here and there for a caña and tapa or two, or ten. MariAngeles was her name, Mary of the Angels. In retrospect she was anything but an angel. She could have been named Maritraviesa* or Marimarchosa*. She loved to party and flirt and take life to the limit. MariAngeles explained to me that she was from a town unlike any other in Andalucia. Úbeda, somewhere up in the mountains of the province of Jaen. She told me that from her town you could see only olive groves for kilometres and kilometres. “Es diferente, no sé como explicarte.” Since she couldn’t find the words to explain why her town was so different than anywhere I had seen until then in Andalucia, she decided to take me there during the town’s fiestas. One thing I have learned since is that if you want to really see a town, don’t go during its fiestas. Not because you won’t have a fantastic time, but because you won’t actually SEE the town or city itself. Especially if you are a young student. The streets are filled with people drinking and dancing, the bars are packed to the gills and any type of normalcy is completely put on hold. Needless to say, Úbeda was a blur of beer, wine, copas and loud music. Besides a fat hangover, I did take back to Granada a memory of the unique architecture. Different than anything I had seen, just like Mariangeles had promised.
Fast forward 12 years and I find myself in Úbeda to give birth to my beautiful daughter. Who the heck goes to Úbeda to have a baby? Especially if you are living just outside of Madrid at the time. Well, there happens to be a small club of now 18 year olds in Granada who were all born in Úbeda. There was a short time when an amazing group of midwives ran the birthing centre at the public hospital, San Juan de la Cruz. Natural births, no actual obgyn´s unless an emergency required one. All inclusive with our public health care. Homemade food included. So, my little Luna was born with a view of olive groves from the window. Many times I have thought that I should have named her Oliva. Needless to say, Úbeda will always be a synonym to Luna.
14th century Losal Gate
My relationship with Úbeda has continued and grown since then. I am blessed to have spent many nights in the parador and to have shared this very special town with many travelers through the years. The main square named Vazquez de Molina is an architectural goldmine. Here you will find the parador which is a 16th century palace built as a private home, the Chapel of San Salvador, the Basilica of Santa Maria and the Palace of the Chains which is one of the best examples of Renaissance architecture in all of Spain. Andres de Valdemira was the architect for the parador and the Palace of Chains. The architect of San Salvador, Diego de Siloé, was also responsible for the Cathedral in Granada. But, while enjoying the beauty of Renaissance in Úbeda we must not forget that the history of the town dates back to pre-Roman times and was a stronghold during the glory of Al-Andalus, the time of Muslim rule on the Iberian Peninsula.
San Salvador Chapel and Dome San Salvador
Parador
You will also find symbols representing the Jewish people who helped this town flourish financially and socially until their expulsion in 1492. Hidden down a side street in the center of town you will find the great discovery of Úbeda, The Synagogue of Water. This is a pre-14th century synagogue that was discovered while converting the building from a hair salon to touristic apartments in 2007. They discovered the arches of the synagogue, the Women’s Gallery and the Micveh. Every year during the summer solstice the sunlight shines through a small window directly onto the Micveh. You can look this up on YouTube to experience this magic.
Mikveh
Sephardic Surnames
Hand of FátimaWater Well
Another of my favorite areas in Úbeda is San Millán, a medieval quarter on the outskirts of the town, where you will find the Alfareros or the pottery artisans. The pottery shops, museum and workshops are filled with cooking utensils, pots, pitchers for wine and water and the traditional Andalusian alcuza used to serve the olive oil, or liquid gold as we called it here. The most common colors you will find here are the glazed green and blue.
If you are a person who is moved by music you will usually have soundtracks that take you back to the different stages in your life. I can trace my soundtracks clearly from childhood up until now. One that carried me through a certain and fairly long period of my life was the music of Spanish singer/ songwriter/poet, Joaquin Sabina. Sabina was born in Úbeda, studied at the university in Granada, spent time in exile in London during the years of the dictatorship and resides in Madrid. In Úbeda you will find a bar called Taberna Calle Melancolía dedicated 100 percent to Sabina. Here you can munch on a tapa or two accompanied by a wine and Sabina´s voice which plays through every opening hour.
It is easy to get wrapped up in the beauty and history of Úbeda but one always needs to eat! Usually food and wine is the focal point of my travels so I do not want to forget one of my favorite places to tapear in this town. Located near the Plaza de Andalucia you will find a tiny placed called, “Al Fondo hay Sitio”. “There is Room in the Back”. The base of this bar´s tapas are what we call in Spain, conservas. Canned goods if you will. Nowadays the whole world is talking about tinned seafood products from both Spain and Portugal. As my friend Jorge says, the shops look almost like Disneylandia. Canned goods have always been an important food source in the world for many reasons throughout history. At this beautiful bar you will find only the best and maybe not things you would imagine. Albacore tuna, chickpeas with salt cod and spinach, piquillo peppers stuffed with foie and beef with a grape sauce, 3 different types of pork loin, white bean stew from Asturias, ox tail, or pickled partridge. Order a glass of great wine and take your pick.
There are also typical dishes from this area of Spain. One of them is called Andrajos. Andrajos date back to the Middle Ages when the people who worked out in the country used whatever that had on hand to elaborate dishes that would help them survive the cold winters in this mountainous area. They are irregular cut flat pieces of pasta made into a stew with pepper, tomato and usually rabbit. We have had them many times in Cazorla but also enjoyed them in the Parador here in Úbeda. It is a nice dish to prepare during these winter months!
Andrajos de Úbeda at the Parador
At the Parador both in Úbeda and Cazorla we have had great dishes prepared with local deer and lamb. Here are a couple plates from Úbeda and you can also read about Cazorla in my other post. Buen provecho!
There is only one thing that can really pull me out of a dark place when life gets to be a bit too much, and that is a long walk. I don’t mean a stroll along the river which I do almost daily or even a few hour hike with my dear friend Wendy. But, a considerable one that leaves me with a blister or two and that hell yeah feeling in my whole body. A couple of weeks ago my partner saw me plunging deeply after the worst few months that life could throw at me and suggested we do a hike that has been in our back pockets for a few months.
Parador in Úbeda
Last fall we had spent a night in Úbeda and met up with my dear friend Andrea for dinner that overflowed into a couple gin tonics. Andrea is not just a fantastic conversationalist but also a wealth of information about this area in Spain. At one point in the evening we got on the subject of one of my favorite Spanish authors, Antonio Machado, and the time he spent living in the neighboring town of Baeza. Andrea mentioned a path that was about to be inaugurated by the people from the towns of Úbeda and Baeza. He explained to us that …it was a hike that already existed but would now be officially recognized as the walk that Antonio Machado and the 16th century priest and mystic Saint John of the Cross did between the two towns during their separate stays in the town of Baeza. The path has always been known as the Path of Saint Anthony.
Antonio Machado was one of Spain’s greatest poets and was part of the Generation of 1898, a group of writers and philosophers that formed during the time of the Spanish American War. Machado was a native of Seville but studied in Madrid and spent time in Paris and Soria (Castilla y Leon), inspiration for his book of poetry Campos de Castilla. This is also where he met the love of his life, Leonor. Their love story ended as soon as it began when Leonor passed away at the young age of 18 after only a few years of marriage with Antonio. It is after this tragedy that Antonio, unable to obtain a teaching position in Madrid, is sent to Baeza as a French Professor. Machado expressed his lack of excitement of Baeza in letters to author and colleague Miguel de Unamuno. He killed his time and boredom walking amongst the olive trees between Baeza and Úbeda and the Sierra de Cazorla.
Poetry
A beautiful moment in the history of Spanish poetry happens in Baeza in the year 1916. A professor from the University of Granada takes a group of students to visit the monumental town of Baeza (73 miles north of Granada) and to meet his cherished friend and poet, Antonio Machado. Within this young group of students was Federico Garcia Lorca, future poet and playwright. During this visit the students had the good fortune of listening to Machado recite his both own poetry and a poem by Nicaraguan poet Rubén Darío. He was a close friend of Machado and had recently passed away.
That evening a magical moment happens in the old Casino when Machado repeats the poem by Darío and Lorca plays a piece by the Spanish composer, Manuel de Falla, on the piano. Not only did this moment begin a long friendship between Lorca and Machado but it also moved Lorca towards his literary vocation. Both Garcia Lorca and Machado died during the Spanish Civil War. Lorca was assassinated near Granada in 1936. Antonio Machado wrote a poem about his death titled, “The Crime was Done in Granada.” Machado died while in exile in France in 1939.
This path, which covers 8 kilometers through the olive tree groves between Úbeda and Baeza, is marked with the memories and poetry of Machado and also the story of Saint John of the Cross. San Juan de la Cruz was born into a family of Jewish converts in the province of Ávila, Castilla y León. He studied philosophy and theology at the University of Salamanca and was eventually ordained as a priest. In his travels he met the Carmelite nun and mystic poet Saint Teresa of Ávila. Together they worked on the reformation of the Carmelite known as the Discalced Carmelites. Saint John of the Cross was eventually imprisoned and tortured by those who were against the reformation. In 1579 John moved to the town of Baeza where he worked as a rector for Andalusian Carmelite friars. Saint John of the Cross died in Úbeda and the public hospital, where my daughter was born, now bears his name.
Antonio Machado in front of the Casino in Baeza
Most people choose to do just one way beginning in Ubeda or Baeza but we started our walk at the Parador in Úbeda and decided to do the round trip which ended up being about 23 kilometres from the Parador in Úbeda to Baeza and back to our small hotel in Úbeda. Along this route through the olive tree groves you can also see the megalithic dolmen encinarejo, named after the encina (Holm Oak) which is one of the native trees in this area. It was dominant in this land before the massive planting of olive trees. The landscape and poetry turn this simple hike into a literary experience regardless of if you are already an admirer of Machado, or enjoying your first taste of his writing and life story.
Dad, I hope you are reading this from above. You were one of the best supporters of my blog. I miss you.
And thank you to my fall group who turned into a family and has inspired me to keep writing.
The morning had started out perfectly in our little hotel. We enjoyed the entertainment of the other breakfasting guests who were still swaying from the previous night at a wedding as we took advantage of the owner’s offer to make to go sandwiches for our camino. The coffee was hot and the bread was fresh. With our boots tied, backpacks balanced and shells dangling we were off into the blue skied morning. But, as we passed through the town towards the path along the sea we noticed the clouds rolling in and the wind picking up its pace. By the time we crossed paths with a heeding friend there was a calm that waded in before us and we knew his words were worth gold. “You can tell by the clouds that the storm is going to hit hard”.
There is no poncho that can stop a North Atlantic storm from soaking you to the core but we trudged ahead into the pouring rain like dedicated pilgrims should do. Those couple hours took my thoughts back to my other pilgrimage’s. First I recalled walking alone along the camino in Castilla y Leon back in 1996 where a thick fog swallowed my boots on the road and my hands before me just before a cold downpour soaked me to the bone. The sky opened up just as I arrived to the great Iron Cross, La Cruz de Ferro, where I unloaded one of my sacred rocks on the ever growing pile. Not long after I arrived to the albergue in Manjarin where I was greeted by Tomás, the last of the Templar Knights, who dedicates his life to caring for pilgrims. My Spanish Grandpa’s had already arrived and were seated around the fire which warmed our wet bodies as we enjoyed the coffee that Tomás served us. I remember the common snack of white bread and chocolate that we also shared. The second memory was from the Camino del Norte in 2005 on the downhill incline leading into Bilbao. It was pouring rain like it does often in the Basque Country and I slipped in the mud and literally flew with my feet in mid air and smacked down onto my side and backpack. I wore a fantastic black and blue tattoo on my left cheek and thigh for weeks after that. Rainy days along the camino can be rough but they also hold the best memories. So we weathered through the storm, laughing and defeated by the pelting rain. Other pilgrims took refuge in lighthouses and under random porches but we had a goal for that day. Sardines!!
Vila Praia de Ancora was a welcoming town. The sun had started to peek out from behind the clouds as we ventured in search of sardines for lunch. A few years ago we had sardines in the town of Espinho just south of Porto and they set the bar extremely high. We have enjoyed very good sardines since then in many places but that restaurant ruined us for life. You can read about those here.
We found the perfect restaurant with one empty table for two. We leaned our packs against the wall outside and settled in. We ordered two beers to go with our cheese and fresh bread. You can never get enough Broa. (see my last post). The cheese came from the same region as the Alvarinho wine that we ordered to accompany the sardines. The region of Melgaço and Monçao is only about 50 kilometres northeast from the coast. All three cheeses were cured goat cheese, one with paprika and Alvarinho wine. While we were killing our hunger with the “couvert” the owner came out and told us that we could move our packs out of the sun and into the restaurant. It was quite the spectacle.
The sardines arrived and all was well in the world. I loved the unique presentation which was different than anywhere else. The sardines were delicately placed around a pile of steamed potatoes that were dressed with a “pickle” of onions and peppers and garnished with a green salad and roast peppers. Three separate meals in one. We couldn’t have been happier.
The final part of our walk to the town of Caminha kept us entertained through a forest along the coast where we made friends with some goats. Finally in Caminha, after an extremely cold dip in the ocean, our family greeted us garbed in their Camino de Santiago t-shirts. We had our very own pep squad for dinner that night!
We really don’t need to leave our neighbourhood for great tapas. We have “La Noticia” which is always the perfect choice when we want to keep it local. I will write about them one day soon! But, when we are downtown we always go to “Los Diamantes”. I have been having tapas at Los Diamantes since I moved to Granada. Thirty years ago there was only one location on Calle Navas and the people would overflow into the back and side alleys with beers and small plates in hand. They would close when they ran out of fresh fish. Now, there are seven locations in Granada and in a small adjoining town. They are all equally delicious and will never fail to serve up the best fried fish and other delicacies.
One of my favourites is the half tomato and half “cogollos” salad. Perfectly seasoned with olive oil and salt (more salt, more beer ordered) and the baby lettuce hearts are also topped with crispy fried garlic. Fantastic! It reminds me of the escarole and pomegranate salad I prepare every fall.
The other day we decided to order the grilled tuna to cut down on our fried food intake. The simple grilled tuna is served along with some “pimientos de padrón” which helped kill some my longing for Galicia. We say, ¨pimientos de padrón, unos pican, otros no.¨ Some are spicy and some are not. The padrón peppers were supposedly brought from South America to Galicia by Franciscan monks. The monks began to harvest these peppers at their monastery in the Hebrón, a neighbourhood in the town of Padrón in Galicia. Since 1978 there is a yearly festival dedicated to the pepper and its farmers.
Remember that when you visit Los Diamantes you can survive on tapas alone. With each drink you will be served one of their specialties of fried shrimp, eggplant, anchovies, marinated dogfish or their special rice. But, it is fun to order something extra to share with your group of friends. Belly up to the bar and enjoy the nonstop entertainment and interaction between the servers and customers.
We took the train to Viana so we could begin our walk the next morning. We only had a certain amount of time to get to Santiago and wanted to reserve a few days at the end to enjoy the Galician coast before heading back home. The last time we were in Viana was a few years ago traveling in our van with Luna, and I was excited to walk the streets and relive those memories. One that we especially wanted to relive was the great restaurant that we had stumbled upon that day where we enjoyed a fantastic meal of swordfish with rice!
My door knocker obsession……
Viana do Castelo is not just one of the most aesthetically beautiful towns in the Minho region, but it also offers plenty of history to its visitors. You can take the funicular up to the Santa Luzia hill for amazing views. Once up top you can also visit the Basilica of The Sacred Heart of Jesus and the Citania de Santa Luzia, part of the Castro Culture that dates back to the Iron-age.
Another obligatory visit while in Viana is the Gil Eanes ship, named after the 15th century Portuguese Navegator and Explorer. This is actually the second ship with the same name. The first ship was used captured and used by the Portuguese navy in WWl and then sent to Newfoundland to support the Portuguese fishing industry as a floating hospital. The ship you will now find in Viana was built in 1955 to replace the former. It served as a hospital, ice breaker, tug and supply ship for almost 2 years until it was abandoned at the port in Lisbon. Luckily, it was saved thanks to one Portuguese historian and today visitors can enjoy the fascinating hospital museum or stay at the youth hostel which occupies a great part of the ship!
It didn’t take us long to locate the restaurant, Casa Primavera. We were lucky to get a seat quickly as the line for tables got progressively longer throughout our dinner. We ordered the house red wine which is usually a “Vinho Verde Tinto” served in a ceramic jar with small porcelain cups, similar to how we drink the Ribeiro wine in Galicia. You can read about this in the posts below……..
The bread in Portugal is scrumptious to say the least. One of my absolute favourites is “Broa” which is made with corn and rye flour. The result is a slightly sweet bread that is dense and earthy. That night we enjoyed our bread with some local cheese and “Salpicão de Melgaço, a cured and smoke sausage made from the Bisaro pig. The first time I learned about the Bisaro Pig was in Lisbon a few years ago.
Our main course had to be fish with boiled potatoes and cabbage drowned in olive oil. We enjoyed both the swordfish which is called “espadarte” in Portuguese and the black scabberfish. In Portuguese, piexe espada preta.
Dessert was an easy choice. Pão de Ló. You may find Pão de Ló translated as a spongecake. However, depending on where you enjoy this dessert, that may or may not seem to coincide with what you are actually eating. The origin of this dessert crossed many cultures and centuries before it evolved to the version you will find in the northern region of Portugal today. You can enjoy variations in Italy, France, Spain, Holland, Romania and Turkey. The Portuguese explorers even introduced this type of cake to Japan and you will still find it under the name of Castella, “a cake from Castile”. The Pão de Ló from Ovar that you see below is made with mostly egg yolks, sugar and a small bit of flour. It is a common Easter sweet throughout the country and the amount of flour is what marks the difference.
Beautiful tiles……….
Happy and full from our amazing dinner we were lucky to catch some of the “marchas populares” before heading off to sleep like good pilgrims. In the videos (not the best quality) you can see the illuminated Basilica at the top of the hill. Enjoy and buen camino!!
So many times during the pandemic and throughout the time recovering from surgery I would close my eyes and walk parts of the Camino. All I wanted to do was put on my backpack and lose myself in its paths, food and community. Last summer I was so lucky to find my journal from my first camino on the French route and it brought back so many memories for me. Almost 26 years ago. Wow! I will share bits and pieces of it here in the future. I am still very sad that my photo album disappeared somewhere. Very sad.
My journal from my first camino!!!!!!!!!!!!
We have been wanting to do the Portuguese Camino for quite a long time now but had a hard time deciding on whether we should do the Coastal Route or the Central Route. Finally, we made our decision and made the dream real this past July. It was mixed partly with work but mostly it was just us and our camino, the way it should be.
I always tell my groups about the miracles that happen along the Way, sharing with them my many stories to back this up. El Caminho Portuguesa Da Costa did not disappoint. We arrived in Porto on a wing and a prayer thanks to RyanAir and their constant strikes (miracle number 1). Our first stop was the Cathedral to pick up our pilgrim´’s passports. As we walked up to the main entrance I spotted two walking sticks propped against the facade of the Cathedral. Taking a closer look, I saw they each had a small note attached. Written in Portuguese and English each note said, “This pole made the Camino 2x. It belonged to …….. who left it first, in this same place, where it was found by …….. who leave it here now. For you. Enjoy”. There was no doubt in our minds and hearts that we had chosen the correct path.
Check out the bread and spicy oil!
Pilgrims need fuel and there is no better place than Porto to have some great food! I had walked by this restaurant a few times the week before and I knew that Filipe and I needed to eat here! When a restaurant is filled with workers and people from the neighbourhood, like the the older gentleman who is served his meal without even having an order taken, you know you are in the right place. I have grown to have a serious weakness for “frango asado” in Portugal. Nobody does grilled chicken better than Portugal and many African countries. Btw you must read, and if you can, eat here…. https://mooninspain.com/2019/06/12/spice-bcn-must-do/
Obviously I had the grilled chicken, served with rice, fries and black beans (my favourite part). Filipe couldn’t pass on one of the most traditional dishes from Porto, Dobrada. Dobrada or Tripas à Moda do Porto is a stew made with white beans and tripe. It is said that this dish originated in the 14th century. Supposedly the people of Porto gave all of the meat to Henry the Navigator´’s Armada when he left to conquer Ceuta and all that was left in the city was the offal. There is also a Portuguese saying, “Fazer das tripas Coração”, which basically means to bend over backwards for someone or something.
The lunch was perfect, showered with great Portuguese wine. A pitcher of wine here costs 3 euros and 60 cents. If you are in Porto and need a great meal, check out Churrasqueira Moura on Rue do Almada. You won’t ever regret the experience.
Porto on the right and Vila Nova de Gaia on the left.
With tummies full and after a nice walk through Porto, we set off to Viana do Castelo where we would actually begin our Camino the next day.
If I could turn back time I would love to see the look on my face when two amazing people invited me to lunch at the 3 Michelin Star Arzak in San Sebastián. Even better, the look on their faces when my original response was a no. I must have had some type of momentary mental lapses or something of the like. Good thing I quickly came to my senses and accepted their extremely generous invitation.
Chinese Bread with AjiEar of Blue Corn
Sunflower Shot with CodSardine with Absinthe
Juan Mari Arzak celebrated his 80th birthday on July 31st, 2022. I still can’t believe that just a few months ago I was actually standing in the kitchen of his restaurant. Arzak became the co-innovator of New Basque Cuisine after taking over his family’s business. In 1897 his grandparents opened a wine shop and tavern from the same building where Arzak stands now and his parents turned the tavern into a local restaurant. He earned his first Michelin star in 1972, when I was just barely a 1 year old. I don’t think you can talk about the Basque Country or Basque Cuisine without thinking of Juan Mari Arzak. He learned how to cook from his mother who would take him to the market to select the very best products. This is the prime principal of Basque cuisine. Juan Mari then spread his love of cooking to his daughter Elena, who now co-runs the kitchen at Arzak. It’s also nice to mention that 80 percent of the team at the restaurant are women.
Eating at Arzak felt like being in someone’s home. The atmosphere is relaxed and humble. It also felt like a dream come true, because it was exactly that for me. When Juan Mari showed up in the dining room I was completely star struck. Luckily, my extremely generous hosts shared the feeling with me or they were just kind enough to not make me feel like a total food nerd.
Monkfish in Basque WhiskeyLamb with Orzo
We had the degustation menu with the wine pairing. It was like a finely tuned symphony of traditional Basque cuisine seasoned with the heart and soul of Elena and Juan Mari Arak. I really could not think of a better way to spend an afternoon in San Sebastián. We relished in every course while enjoying great conversation and laughter.
EnigmaChocolate RuinsClose up of Ruins
Just in case I wasn’t at my highest nerd level from meeting Arzak, one of the desserts was a medley of chocolate columns and ruins, a history dork’s dream!
After our first two desserts our server asked if we wanted to go down into the kitchen to have a photo with Juan Mari!! IN THE KITCHEN!! I had tears in my eyes, I have to admit, when I met him. He looked me straight in the eyes and said to me, “Contigo me iría al final del mundo”. I would go to the end of the earth with you. Our server was taken aback and said, “I have never heard him say that to anyone”. It was definitely love at first sight. A moment I will never forget and will always be truly grateful for, thanks to my wonderful hosts who quickly became friends.
Indescribable chocolatesCoffee with Brandy
I do regret not taking a photo with Elena because she is a true star. Maybe I will run into her in the market or walking through the streets of Donsoti one day. Here is a photo of the menu in English. Thank you from the bottom of my food nerd heart to my lovely hosts!
Last August we had a 50th birthday celebration for one of my dearest friends in Granada. It was very special on many levels. We celebrated her 50 years on earth and also celebrated being together for the first time in so long! Darn Covid . My close friends, Javier and Charo, made the trip from Reus in Catalunya to be here for the occasion! Javier greeted me with his huge smile and hug as always and he also held two bottles of golden Vermouth in his hands! He had brought the best of the best. Vermouth from the town of Reus, where this beverage was introduced by the Italians in the 19th century. Reus is only two hours south of Barcelona and at one point it held at least 30 Vermouth distilleries. With time, the beverage began to spread further into Spain and has become an important aperitif in many cities and towns.
When we feel like enjoying a vermouth here in Granada, we have a few places that we head to immediately. Our favourite is Bar Albergue. It is a classic in the center of Granada, just perfectly located outside of the main tourist area. I went to this bar for the first time over 26 years ago as an innocent and probably clueless student. At the time, in my mind, vermouth was an ingredient in the many martinis that I served working in restaurants and bars in the US. Who knew that I would learn to enjoy vermouth as an aperitif in so many different bars and cities?
Frituta `Mixta with shrimp, anchovies, calamar, hake, and marinated dogfish
Many people go the Bar Albergue for the vermouth and their fried salt cod. Bacalao frito. As I’ve written before, my Italian Nana would use the word bacalao when she joked about giving us a “spanking”. I’m going to give you a “bacalao” she would laughingly say as we imagined a huge dried fish in her hand. In Granada, neither of these words are a laughing matter. We take our vermouth and fried cod very seriously and in Bar Albergue you can enjoy the best. Luis is always behind the bar ready to serve you. Each tapa here is different. You might be served fried hake or fried cod, fresh fried anchovies, or “callos”, a traditional tripe stew. They also serve some of the best “fritura mixtas” in Granada just in case the tapas aren’t enough for you!
Fun fact. The word vermouth comes from the German word wermut which means wormwood, the important ingredient that gives vermouth its bitterness. Salud!
MOONINSPAIN 